Some studies on wave refraction in relation to beach erosion along the Kerala coast

Abstract

Using the British Admiralty bathymetric charts off the West Coast of India and employing the graphical method of consturucting wave refraction diagrams, an attempt is made to study the behaviour of the short period waves (4, 5 and 6 seconds) which are found to affect the coast generally in the neighbourhood of Cochin Port entrance. Nineteen stations, at intervals of roughly one mile, are chosen around the three-fathom line in this area. Considering a probable field of approach of deep-water waves, limited to a cone of 90°, five directions of approach are chosen at intervals of 22½° in the range of 202½° to 292½°. Refraction diagrams are prepared for these directions and periods and from these, the refraction functions and directional parameters are evaluated for each station. The possible directions of flow of long-shore current and the areas vulnerable to erosion and sedimentation are investigated.